Calvados Applesauce with Butter Walnut Crumbs

Fall finally feels like it’s here for keeps; the temperature has dropped enough that I need a light jacket to run around town in,
 

the shadows are growing longer, the daylight growing softer, and the ornamental grasses in the park have donned their tassels.

On Saturday at the Tribeca farmers market my favorite edible sign of fall, apples, was out in full force.

I eat an apple every (week)day pretty much without fail. I’m a creature of habit when it comes to eating (see my egg post) and when I’m at work I have an apple around 3:00 or 4:00 because A) it’s good for me and B) I’m always hungry.

I buy my apples from Terhune Orchard on Saturdays at Union Square throughout the winter, spring, and summer because their apples always retain their crisp texture. I’ve tried buying from other farmers and I hate to say it but they often disappoint; their apples are usually soft and mealy, which is just horrible in an apple. Part of an apple's appeal is biting into it and hearing a snappy crunch...

What sets Terhune apples apart is the way they are stored; in addition to keeping them in cold storage at a low temperature (common practice on farms), the room is also equipped to maintain the air’s oxygen concentration at low levels (not so common). Both these factors combined vastly increase the life of an apple.

But it’s fall now so it doesn’t matter which farm I buy my apples from; they are all fresh off the tree, crisp, and delicious. Prospect Hill Orchard comes to the Tribeca farmers market from Ulster County, NY and has a nice selection of apples, including heirloom and organic, as well as the usual suspects.

For the past month I’ve been hoping to cook or bake something with apples but have failed miserably; there never seems to be enough hours in the day. On Saturday morning Ruth Reichl’s tweet sent me over the edge: “Silver sky. Storm’s end. Baking bread perfumes the house with its warm, brown scent as apples, butter, Calvados melt into chunky sauce.”

That’s it; apples here I come! I’m starting with an applesauce dessert and who knows what will be next. Stay tuned.

Applesauce with Butter Walnut Crumbs
Adapted from Gourmet, December 2004

This is so easy! No excuses, people!

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon finely chopped pecans or walnuts
1 slice firm white sandwich bread with crust, coarsely ground in a food processor (about 1/2 cup)
1/2 cup bottled chunky applesauce (I made me own; see below)

Garnish: lightly sweetened whipped cream

Heat butter in an 8-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat until foam subsides, then cook nuts and bread crumbs with a pinch of salt, stirring constantly, until golden, 2 to 3 minutes.

Spoon applesauce into a goblet or other glass, then sprinkle with crumb mixture.

Calvados Applesauce
Adapted from Gourmet, January 2003

Given whom the tweet came from, I knew exactly where to find a Calvados applesauce recipe. I went to Gourmet online and there it was.

I doubled the recipe and halved the amount of sugar originally called for. I also used Golden Delicious apples because the Gala’s had sold out by the time I got to the stand.

I’m sure you can leave the Calvados out if you want but I found it added a nice depth of flavor.

1 lb Gala apples
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
2 tablespoons Calvados

Peel and core apples, then cut into 1-inch pieces. Bring apples, water, sugar, zest, and cinnamon to a boil in a 2-quart heavy saucepan, stirring occasionally, then reduce heat and simmer, covered, 15 minutes.

Remove lid and simmer until most of liquid is evaporated, 5 to 10 minutes. Add Calvados and simmer, stirring occasionally, 1 minute. Mash apples with a potato masher or a fork to a coarse sauce, then cool.

New Amsterdam Market

I found an apartment and signed a lease – happy day!! Back to normal life. Here’s the view from the roof deck of my new home.




Even in gray weather it’s a breathtaking spot. Aside from being on the water, I love that my new place has a bigger kitchen and is only two blocks from the Tribeca Farmers Market. Hopefully some great posts will come out of my next adventure!

Don’t forget tomorrow is another New Amsterdam Market. In addition to the usual abundant selection of dairy, produce, fish, wine, bread, and meat from the Northeast, this meeting will highlight the resurgence of the neighborhood butcher shop. Four businesses leading the way in this endeavor and participating tomorrow are Fleisher’s Grassfed and Organic Meats of Kingston, NY, Marlow and Daughters and Meat Hook, both of Brooklyn, and newly-opened Dickson’s Farmstand Meats of Manhattan.

In the 1830’s there were over 300 neighborhood butcher shops connecting New York City’s 200,000 residents to regionally-raised meat. The current 8,000,000 residents of the City have, for the most part, lost this connection but are fortunate to have access to these four pioneering shops, all of whom buy whole animals from regional farms committed to raising their animals in a humane and sustainable manner.

If you have questions about the differences between meat that is grass-fed, grain-fed, grain-finished, pasture-raised, and organic (and honestly, who doesn’t?!), tomorrow is a great time to meet and talk to the people who know it best.

I’m volunteering at the Market so I’ll be there at 7:00 am (what was I thinking?!), but the rest of you can sleep in and get there between 11:00 am and 4:00 pm. For a map and directions, click here.